Ages ago, I picked up a cookbook called "Cooking For Yourself." It was part of the Williams-Sonoma canon and I snagged it on deep discount while I was working there.
I wasn't feeling all militant and single or anything - it just had some good recipes. And some good thoughts on how to buy food without wasting it, and without eating the same thing for a week. Despite the whole foreword about how you shouldn't feel bad about yourself because you're cooking solo.
I kid. It doesn't really say that. Well, not in so many words.
Anyway, I latched onto one recipe in this thing right away, and it's still something I make, 10+ years later.
It is, in fact, ideal, when you are cooking for yourself. As I was, tonight.
Also, I was super hungry. And also, I'm eating lightly this week so I can wear this certain dress to Rayleen & James' wedding this weekend. A very pretty dress. A very unforgiving dress.
Eating lightly for me means fish and veggies. For some reason, that seems to work for me. So I went back to my old salmon-in-a-packet standby.
It's so easy. Even if you're not cooking for yourself, you should add this to your repertoire. Just multiply the ingredients and packets.
And if you are cooking for yourself, I have a bunch of tricks that make this super single-person friendly.
Here's how it goes:
Go to the store and get yourself a nice piece of wild, line caught, salmon. Then go to the salad bar. Get corn, red peppers, and jalapenos. You want about 1/2 cup of corn, 1/4 cup red peppers, and a couple of tablespoons of jalapenos. And cilantro, a few tablespoons of that. If you remember to get cilantro, which I did not.
Chop up the peppers if you need to. Try to get the pieces roughly the same size. Perfection is not required here.
Salt and pepper the corn/jalapeno/pepper mix and put it on a piece of foil. Add a few dots of butter.
Put your piece of salmon on top of the pile.
Oh. Crap. Set your oven to 450! You should have done that before! Do it now!
Ok, and then take a wedge of lime and squeeze it over your salmon on the pile of veggies. Salt and pepper it, and place lime wedges on top and then dots of butter.
Pull up the long sides of the foil and fold over the top so it's sealed. Then roll up the ends.
Now bake it. For 15 minutes. Or 20 minutes if you have a super thick filet, but I suggest you cook it for 15.
Be super careful when you take it out as you don't want to burn yourself on the steam coming from the packet of delicious.
It'll look like this:
If you, like me, had a piece of salmon with the skin on it, remove the salmon with a spatula to a cutting board. Flip it over and peel off the skin.
Tasty! (And healthy!)
The juices are delicious, by the way. You may want to consider serving this in a bowl so you can drink the juices at the end. Luckily, you're dining alone so such behavior is totally ok.
Monday, August 27, 2012
Cooking For Yourself
Thursday, August 23, 2012
Blue Suede Shoes
It's summer. Also I evidently have insomnia tonight. Fun. Seems like a good time to write a blog post. Sorry I've been such a slacker.
Here's a dinner I made the other day. Man, I love summer produce. This was a nicoise-inspired thing. A little steamed red potato and green beans, a few halved grape tomatoes, some dijon-ish vinaigrette, and a nicely seared piece of tuna.
People act like cooking is a big deal, but it's not. It's actually simple if you follow a few basic rules.
1. Buy and eat what's in season. Guess what this means? No tomatoes in March. Sorry. I know you love tomatoes, but too bad. You'll appreciate them all the more when they come into season in August. You'll eat your face off with heirlooms and beefsteaks and dry farmed early girls, and cherry tomatoes in four different colors. It's worth the wait.
2. Keep it simple. I can't tell you how far a decent ($15 a bottle, not $40 a bottle) olive oil, some kosher salt (for God's sake, it doesn't have to be pink Himalayan sea salt or cost $60 a pound, but please, please ditch the iodized salt. It is 2012. You don't need to worry about goiters. Seriously.) and some FRESH ground (DO NOT BUY PRE-GROUND!!!) pepper can take basically ANYTHING and make it tasty. I'm serious. Start with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Try it on raw veggies, steamed veggies, roasted veggies. Try it as a preparation for all kinds of meats, including shrimp and fish. Which brings me to rule #3…
3. Overcooking is the devil. This is hard. I have a lot of trouble with it. I get nervous about undercooked chicken (Salmonella! OMG!!) and then I really dry out that nice, organic, pasture-raised piece of chicken I just paid way too much for at Whole Foods. Or…who among us hasn't accidentally forgotten to set the timer for pasta or veggies? We've all done it. Mush and gray. Awesome for the gruel in Oliver!. Not awesome for your food. The only time overcooking works to your advantage is when you are roasting some veggies that are on the brink of extinction. It is at this time - when you need to caramelize the sh*t out of something - that overcooking is ok. But otherwise it's not. So learn how to not overcook things by practicing. It's like hemming pants: you can always do more but you can't do less.
4. Play around! Challenge yourself to cook once a week without a recipe. I'm serious. I don't mean that you should memorize your recipe before you start. I mean, attempt to assemble something using just your wits and your experience. You can do it. And do you know what? If it sucks, you can order Thai. Don't worry about it. Just try. And try to remember that you'll always learn more from your failures than your successes. This is true in the kitchen and far from it.
In sum, cooking isn't a big deal. It just takes practice, patience, and attention to what you are doing. Be open to making mistakes and learn from them when you do make them.
It's not rocket surgery (as a darling colleague of mine likes to say). It is NOT a big deal. For real.
Ok, so guess what?! I did a craft. Holy crap, Kate, something homemade that we can't eat? Yes!
Aren't you excited?
I bought these shoes the other day because I wanted an alternative pair of comfortable heels to wear so I don't wear out my favorite black patent pumps before their time. These were cheap. I found them at DSW.
Only problem is…they have this gross disco heel.
Ew. Blue and fabric-covered and shimmery? Really?? Something had to be done about this.
Alright, in the interest of full disclosure, these are Jessica Simpson shoes. I know, I KNOW. It does hurt me a little on the inside. Really, it does. But I have to give Jess a little credit - the color of the suede is kind of perfect - a "new neutral," if you will.
Oh - which totally reminds me of when I turned 21 and Mer gave me this AWESOME fuchsia bag from Coach that I was OBSESSED with (I still have it) and, drunk, on my 21st, went all about town telling basically anyone who would listen that "hot pink was the new black."
Yeah, I'm that girl.
But I digress.
Anyway, Jessica Simpson shoes: great but for the ugly fabric covered heel.
So I painted them.
Yeah. You can do this, too. Don't think you have to accept things as the manufacturer makes them. You are better than that - you have more style. Go for it.
It's easy.
Get some craft paint that works on fabric and a nice, small brush. This will set you back about $4.71 at Michaels.
Put down some newspaper.
Paint. Cover everything but don't get too gloppy or thick.
Wait an hour and paint again.
And voila. Shoes that don't look like you're moonlighting as a "shots girl" at Northstar.
Which I'm not.
In case you were wondering.
Here's a dinner I made the other day. Man, I love summer produce. This was a nicoise-inspired thing. A little steamed red potato and green beans, a few halved grape tomatoes, some dijon-ish vinaigrette, and a nicely seared piece of tuna.
People act like cooking is a big deal, but it's not. It's actually simple if you follow a few basic rules.
1. Buy and eat what's in season. Guess what this means? No tomatoes in March. Sorry. I know you love tomatoes, but too bad. You'll appreciate them all the more when they come into season in August. You'll eat your face off with heirlooms and beefsteaks and dry farmed early girls, and cherry tomatoes in four different colors. It's worth the wait.
2. Keep it simple. I can't tell you how far a decent ($15 a bottle, not $40 a bottle) olive oil, some kosher salt (for God's sake, it doesn't have to be pink Himalayan sea salt or cost $60 a pound, but please, please ditch the iodized salt. It is 2012. You don't need to worry about goiters. Seriously.) and some FRESH ground (DO NOT BUY PRE-GROUND!!!) pepper can take basically ANYTHING and make it tasty. I'm serious. Start with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Try it on raw veggies, steamed veggies, roasted veggies. Try it as a preparation for all kinds of meats, including shrimp and fish. Which brings me to rule #3…
3. Overcooking is the devil. This is hard. I have a lot of trouble with it. I get nervous about undercooked chicken (Salmonella! OMG!!) and then I really dry out that nice, organic, pasture-raised piece of chicken I just paid way too much for at Whole Foods. Or…who among us hasn't accidentally forgotten to set the timer for pasta or veggies? We've all done it. Mush and gray. Awesome for the gruel in Oliver!. Not awesome for your food. The only time overcooking works to your advantage is when you are roasting some veggies that are on the brink of extinction. It is at this time - when you need to caramelize the sh*t out of something - that overcooking is ok. But otherwise it's not. So learn how to not overcook things by practicing. It's like hemming pants: you can always do more but you can't do less.
4. Play around! Challenge yourself to cook once a week without a recipe. I'm serious. I don't mean that you should memorize your recipe before you start. I mean, attempt to assemble something using just your wits and your experience. You can do it. And do you know what? If it sucks, you can order Thai. Don't worry about it. Just try. And try to remember that you'll always learn more from your failures than your successes. This is true in the kitchen and far from it.
In sum, cooking isn't a big deal. It just takes practice, patience, and attention to what you are doing. Be open to making mistakes and learn from them when you do make them.
It's not rocket surgery (as a darling colleague of mine likes to say). It is NOT a big deal. For real.
Ok, so guess what?! I did a craft. Holy crap, Kate, something homemade that we can't eat? Yes!
Aren't you excited?
I bought these shoes the other day because I wanted an alternative pair of comfortable heels to wear so I don't wear out my favorite black patent pumps before their time. These were cheap. I found them at DSW.
Only problem is…they have this gross disco heel.
Ew. Blue and fabric-covered and shimmery? Really?? Something had to be done about this.
Alright, in the interest of full disclosure, these are Jessica Simpson shoes. I know, I KNOW. It does hurt me a little on the inside. Really, it does. But I have to give Jess a little credit - the color of the suede is kind of perfect - a "new neutral," if you will.
Oh - which totally reminds me of when I turned 21 and Mer gave me this AWESOME fuchsia bag from Coach that I was OBSESSED with (I still have it) and, drunk, on my 21st, went all about town telling basically anyone who would listen that "hot pink was the new black."
Yeah, I'm that girl.
But I digress.
Anyway, Jessica Simpson shoes: great but for the ugly fabric covered heel.
So I painted them.
Yeah. You can do this, too. Don't think you have to accept things as the manufacturer makes them. You are better than that - you have more style. Go for it.
It's easy.
Get some craft paint that works on fabric and a nice, small brush. This will set you back about $4.71 at Michaels.
Put down some newspaper.
Paint. Cover everything but don't get too gloppy or thick.
Wait an hour and paint again.
And voila. Shoes that don't look like you're moonlighting as a "shots girl" at Northstar.
Which I'm not.
In case you were wondering.
Monday, July 09, 2012
I'll Have the Whale
Yesterday was the halfway point of my trip. I feel like I've been gone for approximately a month so I think this vacation is doing what it's supposed to. Lobotomize me. I mean, refresh my brain.
Before the weekend, it was stunningly beautiful here. Perfect sunny weather. We tried to go to the famed Bird Island of Runde, known for its many, many puffins. It was a beautiful drive and then, just a few kilometers away from the island, this extremely dark and large cloud started to roll over the mountains in front of us.
By the time we got to Runde, the temperature had dropped and it was cold and windy. (It actually looked a lot like when the fog rolls into San Francisco this time of year.) So we bailed on bird island and found a sunny spot for a hike.
Foreground: Mashall learns to blow dandelion seeds.
Background: Chrissy applies SPF 2000 to Josie.
This was the view from the top.
It's hard to tell from the picture, but I think we were walking on some kind of bog. It was very spongy moss that was rather springy underfoot. Kind of like that gluten-free McDonald's bun from Stockholm. (By the way, did I mention that the Big Mac is called a McThomas in Sweden?)
Chrissy's husband Will has been on a business trip to Singapore so the next day, Chrissy and I took the kids on a mini vacation to Trondheim.
It takes about 6 hours to get to Trondheim, including two ferries, and a lot of tunnels and bridges.
This one looked like a modern version of the Golden Gate bridge. Only not golden. And only two lanes.
Six hours is a loooong time in the car but the kids were really, really good.
Trondheim is incredibly charming.
Our hotel, the Rika Nidelven, was lovely and situated right on the river that runs through town.
When we arrived, we took the kids to the Trondheim Science Center which is a kid-oriented museum with LOTS of hands on activities. It was super fun.
Josie especially loved the spinner.
She was on it for hours.
I also loved that to the side of the kids' outdoor play area was this:
Yes, that's a catapult. A discarded catapult. Not, like blocked off or anything. Just put aside. It doesn't even have a sign on it that says not to touch it or play on it.
I guess the Norwegians just assume that people don't need to be told these things.
Fascinating.
I also loved that one of the "Did you know?" signs in the museum had information about when the cheese plane was invented. Norwegians are very into their cheese planes. It's how they slice brunost, a traditional Norwegian cheese.
After the science museum, we were all ready for dinner. We took the kids to a fancy adult restaurant. While Josie and I were washing our hands after touching EVERYTHING at the Science Museum, the waitress came over to tell Chrissy about the dinner specials.
When we came back to the table, Chrissy was very excited.
"The fish of the day is halibut with a tomato-y sauce, and the meat of the day is whale."
Whale! Obviously, we HAD TO have some whale. When else do you have a chance to have whale?
Hopefully it wasn't baby whale...
We order.
Chrissy: "The kids will have child portions of the halibut with all the vegetables and sauces on the side and I'll have the whale."
Waitress: "The vale?"
Chrissy: "Yes, the whale."
Here's the whale.
You might notice that the whale looks a lot like VEAL. Because it is veal. Turns out that "veal" said with a heavy Norwegian accent sounds just like "whale."
Anyway, the whale was delicious.
So was the halibut.

We followed this delightful meal with some ice cream, because Norwegians love two things: dessert and hot dogs, and then rolled ourselves back to the hotel. We had a big day to prepare for on Sunday.
There was a massive breakfast buffet at the hotel for us to take down.
I didn't photograph it all but this is by far the best hotel breakfast I have ever seen in my life. It had everything: cured meats, many cheeses, hot meats, several kids of eggs, at least half a dozen types of salmon, a giant yogurt/cereal buffet, salad, a fruit buffet, a fresh-squeezed custom juice station, a slice-your-own-bread-station, and many, many trays of baked and griddled breakfast treats.
They even had a special section of gluten free breads and crackers. I love it here.
You know, just in case. It's good to have these things onhand. You never know when you're going to need to give this to someone.
It was a rainy day so we skipped the outdoor museum and headed home. Not two minutes outside of the city, it was lunchtime and the kids were claiming hunger despite our enormous breakfast binge, so we stopped for gas and a very Norwegian lunch of cheese-stuffed bacon-wrapped hot dogs.
No, seriously. Modern Norwegian cuisine bears a striking resemblance to carnival food.
We also had ice cream on the ferry. It was a banner day for food, that's for sure.
We also discovered an awesome Swedish pop song.
We really can't get enough of it.
Before the weekend, it was stunningly beautiful here. Perfect sunny weather. We tried to go to the famed Bird Island of Runde, known for its many, many puffins. It was a beautiful drive and then, just a few kilometers away from the island, this extremely dark and large cloud started to roll over the mountains in front of us.
By the time we got to Runde, the temperature had dropped and it was cold and windy. (It actually looked a lot like when the fog rolls into San Francisco this time of year.) So we bailed on bird island and found a sunny spot for a hike.
Foreground: Mashall learns to blow dandelion seeds.
Background: Chrissy applies SPF 2000 to Josie.
This was the view from the top.
It's hard to tell from the picture, but I think we were walking on some kind of bog. It was very spongy moss that was rather springy underfoot. Kind of like that gluten-free McDonald's bun from Stockholm. (By the way, did I mention that the Big Mac is called a McThomas in Sweden?)
Chrissy's husband Will has been on a business trip to Singapore so the next day, Chrissy and I took the kids on a mini vacation to Trondheim.
It takes about 6 hours to get to Trondheim, including two ferries, and a lot of tunnels and bridges.
This one looked like a modern version of the Golden Gate bridge. Only not golden. And only two lanes.
Six hours is a loooong time in the car but the kids were really, really good.
Trondheim is incredibly charming.
Our hotel, the Rika Nidelven, was lovely and situated right on the river that runs through town.
When we arrived, we took the kids to the Trondheim Science Center which is a kid-oriented museum with LOTS of hands on activities. It was super fun.
Josie especially loved the spinner.
She was on it for hours.
I also loved that to the side of the kids' outdoor play area was this:
Yes, that's a catapult. A discarded catapult. Not, like blocked off or anything. Just put aside. It doesn't even have a sign on it that says not to touch it or play on it.
I guess the Norwegians just assume that people don't need to be told these things.
Fascinating.
I also loved that one of the "Did you know?" signs in the museum had information about when the cheese plane was invented. Norwegians are very into their cheese planes. It's how they slice brunost, a traditional Norwegian cheese.
After the science museum, we were all ready for dinner. We took the kids to a fancy adult restaurant. While Josie and I were washing our hands after touching EVERYTHING at the Science Museum, the waitress came over to tell Chrissy about the dinner specials.
When we came back to the table, Chrissy was very excited.
"The fish of the day is halibut with a tomato-y sauce, and the meat of the day is whale."
Whale! Obviously, we HAD TO have some whale. When else do you have a chance to have whale?
Hopefully it wasn't baby whale...
We order.
Chrissy: "The kids will have child portions of the halibut with all the vegetables and sauces on the side and I'll have the whale."
Waitress: "The vale?"
Chrissy: "Yes, the whale."
Here's the whale.
You might notice that the whale looks a lot like VEAL. Because it is veal. Turns out that "veal" said with a heavy Norwegian accent sounds just like "whale."
Anyway, the whale was delicious.
So was the halibut.

We followed this delightful meal with some ice cream, because Norwegians love two things: dessert and hot dogs, and then rolled ourselves back to the hotel. We had a big day to prepare for on Sunday.
There was a massive breakfast buffet at the hotel for us to take down.
I didn't photograph it all but this is by far the best hotel breakfast I have ever seen in my life. It had everything: cured meats, many cheeses, hot meats, several kids of eggs, at least half a dozen types of salmon, a giant yogurt/cereal buffet, salad, a fruit buffet, a fresh-squeezed custom juice station, a slice-your-own-bread-station, and many, many trays of baked and griddled breakfast treats.
They even had a special section of gluten free breads and crackers. I love it here.
Fishcakes in the foreground.
Many delicious cold fishes. Don't worry, I sampled them all.
Josie's very excited about breakfast.
That brown flat thing toward the back of my plate is brunost. Please also note the half-eaten soft boiled egg in the middle. Look at how yellow (orange!) that yolk is! These eggs did not come from a factory farm.
After lunch, we rolled ourselves over to Nidaros Cathedral, which was originally built in the 11th century. It was really impressive, although we were not allowed to photograph the inside, so all I have for you is this:
Then I went over to the train station and bought a one-way ticket to Hell.You know, just in case. It's good to have these things onhand. You never know when you're going to need to give this to someone.
It was a rainy day so we skipped the outdoor museum and headed home. Not two minutes outside of the city, it was lunchtime and the kids were claiming hunger despite our enormous breakfast binge, so we stopped for gas and a very Norwegian lunch of cheese-stuffed bacon-wrapped hot dogs.
No, seriously. Modern Norwegian cuisine bears a striking resemblance to carnival food.
We also had ice cream on the ferry. It was a banner day for food, that's for sure.
We also discovered an awesome Swedish pop song.
We really can't get enough of it.
Friday, July 06, 2012
Is it Still Night if it Doesn't Get Dark Out?
This is what midnight looks like in early July when you're at the 62nd parallel:
I'm not exaggerating. I took that shot at 11:55pm last night. Or 23:55, if we want to be all European about it. With no tricks of lighting or flashes. It was actually light enough out that I was still reading in bed by the light of day. Or night, as it were.
I am really far north.
Here's Alesund. It's beautiful here and the weather has been perfect.
I wasn't really prepared for how stunning Norway would be. Flying into the tiny Alesund-Vigra airport, it looks like a sunny day on approach into the airport on the island of Myst. (Remember that computer game? It was like LOST. So confusing. I hated that game.)
Even from a dirty airplane window, you can kind of understand why that Norwegian Blue would have been pining for these fjords. They are breathtaking.
We had a lovely 4th of July celebration here. It was a real American picnic, with grilled hamburgers, hot dogs, potato salad, and ice cream.
We had everything but the fireworks, and we even got to eat outside. It was perfect.
On a totally unrelated note, Norwegians have a strange sense of humor.
This poster was in the Oslo Airport, advertising a bar (duh.) I don't know why there is a naked, angry baby on it but what I do know is that everything about this creepy poster makes me want a drink. Immediately. A strong one.
It's another gorgeous day here today, so we're off to hike and picnic on the bird island of Runde.
Tomorrow we're off to Trondheim, a university city a few hours north of here. We tried to go to Tromso (above the Arctic Circle) but it turns out that flights are almost $600 per person. (As 4-year-old Josie said "OH MY GOD! SIX HUNDRED DOLLARS?!?!) So we scrapped that idea. Now we'll drive to Trondheim where we're staying in a hotel noted for its' massive, amazing breakfast buffet. The breakfast buffet is noted as #54 on Chrissy's list of 99 Things You Must Do In Norway.
There's also an Ikea in Trondheim. And a science museum. A little something for everyone.
Road trip!
I'm not exaggerating. I took that shot at 11:55pm last night. Or 23:55, if we want to be all European about it. With no tricks of lighting or flashes. It was actually light enough out that I was still reading in bed by the light of day. Or night, as it were.
I am really far north.
Here's Alesund. It's beautiful here and the weather has been perfect.
I wasn't really prepared for how stunning Norway would be. Flying into the tiny Alesund-Vigra airport, it looks like a sunny day on approach into the airport on the island of Myst. (Remember that computer game? It was like LOST. So confusing. I hated that game.)
Even from a dirty airplane window, you can kind of understand why that Norwegian Blue would have been pining for these fjords. They are breathtaking.
We had a lovely 4th of July celebration here. It was a real American picnic, with grilled hamburgers, hot dogs, potato salad, and ice cream.
We had everything but the fireworks, and we even got to eat outside. It was perfect.
This poster was in the Oslo Airport, advertising a bar (duh.) I don't know why there is a naked, angry baby on it but what I do know is that everything about this creepy poster makes me want a drink. Immediately. A strong one.
It's another gorgeous day here today, so we're off to hike and picnic on the bird island of Runde.
Tomorrow we're off to Trondheim, a university city a few hours north of here. We tried to go to Tromso (above the Arctic Circle) but it turns out that flights are almost $600 per person. (As 4-year-old Josie said "OH MY GOD! SIX HUNDRED DOLLARS?!?!) So we scrapped that idea. Now we'll drive to Trondheim where we're staying in a hotel noted for its' massive, amazing breakfast buffet. The breakfast buffet is noted as #54 on Chrissy's list of 99 Things You Must Do In Norway.
There's also an Ikea in Trondheim. And a science museum. A little something for everyone.
Road trip!
Thursday, July 05, 2012
Stockholm, Highbrow and Lowbrow
I guess it's fitting that I spent day two in Stockholm experiencing a mix of highbrow and lowbrow culture. After all, these are the people that gave us Ikea and H&M: high style at low prices. Turns out it's hard to escape Stockholm without being buffeted between the two.
Highbrow
I started the day with a walk over to the Stadshuset, which is both Stockholm's City Hall and also where the Nobel Prizes are awarded. I got up at 6am without an alarm (it really doesn't get dark at night) and wandered over there since practically nothing opens until 10am.

I believe this is some kind of symbol of Stockholm. I like it because it reminds me of one of my favorite Matisse line drawings:
(Fata with Hat of Light, Memory of Mallarme, 1933.)

Proof I was here.
You can kind of see Gamla Stan (the Old Town) over my right shoulder. You would have been able to see more of it but the stranger who took my picture clearly doesn't know anything about framing a shot.
Here's what the view really looked like:
Lowbrow
Then, I walked through the Kungsholmen neighborhood (which is fairly normal and non-touristy) to a supermarket, because I always think it's so interesting to see where the locals buy their food. You can tell a lot about a culture by what's in its grocery stores. The Swedes love cheese, fish, bread, and bulk bin candy.
They do actually have Swedish fish in Sweden. Only they are just called "pastelfisk" and, oddly, they are not all red but are a variety of mixed colors. Unfortunately, my attempts to photograph them failed.
Highbrow
Next up was a visit to the Moderna Museet, followed by a jaunt over to the Historiska Museet, i.e. the Viking Museum. Sadly, there were no hats with horns in the Viking museum, although I did see a lot of old gold jewelry and treasures. Very fancy.
At this point, I was starving and tired from walking around for the last 5 hours. I was hoping to lunch at an outdoor cafe in Ostermalm but couldn't find one that was crowded enough to probably be good, but not crowded enough that I could get a seat outside
Lowbrow
So I caved, and went to McDonald's.
I know, I know. Here's the thing.
McDonald's in Sweden actually has gluten-free buns for its burgers. I couldn't resist.
As you can see by the glop of ketchup on my hand, the Swedes are very into their condiments. I somehow managed to get ketchup in my hair (!) while eating this thing...ketchup that I only discovered the next morning. Classy.
Also, the bun...the bun was spongy. It's hard to get the full effect from this picture, but when I say "spongy," I mean, literally like an object which might absorb soap and clean dishes. It had the kind of texture that causes one to wonder if it is actually digestible. Oh well.
Highbrow
Post-McDonald's picnic, I did a bit of shopping, including a trip to Marzio which had fabulous shoes and bags but unfortunately not in my size, as most of the store was on sale (a benefit to traveling in July). I also made a trip to NK, which is like Swedish Harrod's. Very cool and lovely.
Dinner that evening was at B.A.R., a restaurant I read about in a few places, including in a recent Elle Decor guide to the city.
I sat outside and enjoyed the loveliest meal.
To start, I chose the Ocean Plate, which featured cavian, smoked char, pickled herring (obviously), a langoustine, and some shrimps.

Seriously, I can't express how good this bread was. It was nutty and wheat-y and multi-grain-ish and awesome. America needs to figure out this bread.
After the feast of fishes, I had some reindeer, because when in Scandinavia... and also, I'd never eaten reindeer before.
This reindeer was so tender and delicious. Really incredible. Like beef, only less..beefy. You know how sometimes you can taste beef up in your nose? Like that charred beef-ness gets up way up in your palate? Reindeer doesn't do that.
Then I realized that the reason that the reindeer was so tender was because this was not a reindeer that had spent any time pulling a sleigh. This was reindeer CALF.
Oh my god, I ate baby reindeer.
Well anyway, it was delicious.
Highbrow
I started the day with a walk over to the Stadshuset, which is both Stockholm's City Hall and also where the Nobel Prizes are awarded. I got up at 6am without an alarm (it really doesn't get dark at night) and wandered over there since practically nothing opens until 10am.

I believe this is some kind of symbol of Stockholm. I like it because it reminds me of one of my favorite Matisse line drawings:
(Fata with Hat of Light, Memory of Mallarme, 1933.)

Nobel Prizes awarded through these doors.
You can kind of see Gamla Stan (the Old Town) over my right shoulder. You would have been able to see more of it but the stranger who took my picture clearly doesn't know anything about framing a shot.
Here's what the view really looked like:
Lowbrow
Then, I walked through the Kungsholmen neighborhood (which is fairly normal and non-touristy) to a supermarket, because I always think it's so interesting to see where the locals buy their food. You can tell a lot about a culture by what's in its grocery stores. The Swedes love cheese, fish, bread, and bulk bin candy.
Highbrow
Next up was a visit to the Moderna Museet, followed by a jaunt over to the Historiska Museet, i.e. the Viking Museum. Sadly, there were no hats with horns in the Viking museum, although I did see a lot of old gold jewelry and treasures. Very fancy.
At this point, I was starving and tired from walking around for the last 5 hours. I was hoping to lunch at an outdoor cafe in Ostermalm but couldn't find one that was crowded enough to probably be good, but not crowded enough that I could get a seat outside
Lowbrow
So I caved, and went to McDonald's.
I know, I know. Here's the thing.
McDonald's in Sweden actually has gluten-free buns for its burgers. I couldn't resist.
As you can see by the glop of ketchup on my hand, the Swedes are very into their condiments. I somehow managed to get ketchup in my hair (!) while eating this thing...ketchup that I only discovered the next morning. Classy.
Also, the bun...the bun was spongy. It's hard to get the full effect from this picture, but when I say "spongy," I mean, literally like an object which might absorb soap and clean dishes. It had the kind of texture that causes one to wonder if it is actually digestible. Oh well.
Highbrow
Post-McDonald's picnic, I did a bit of shopping, including a trip to Marzio which had fabulous shoes and bags but unfortunately not in my size, as most of the store was on sale (a benefit to traveling in July). I also made a trip to NK, which is like Swedish Harrod's. Very cool and lovely.
Dinner that evening was at B.A.R., a restaurant I read about in a few places, including in a recent Elle Decor guide to the city.
I sat outside and enjoyed the loveliest meal.
To start, I chose the Ocean Plate, which featured cavian, smoked char, pickled herring (obviously), a langoustine, and some shrimps.

Also, because this is Sweden, where they don't act like you are a pariah if you can't eat wheat, the restaurant quickly swapped out the normal bread basket for some gluten-free bread THAT WAS DELICIOUS.
Seriously, I can't express how good this bread was. It was nutty and wheat-y and multi-grain-ish and awesome. America needs to figure out this bread.
After the feast of fishes, I had some reindeer, because when in Scandinavia... and also, I'd never eaten reindeer before.
This reindeer was so tender and delicious. Really incredible. Like beef, only less..beefy. You know how sometimes you can taste beef up in your nose? Like that charred beef-ness gets up way up in your palate? Reindeer doesn't do that.
Then I realized that the reason that the reindeer was so tender was because this was not a reindeer that had spent any time pulling a sleigh. This was reindeer CALF.
Oh my god, I ate baby reindeer.
Well anyway, it was delicious.
Labels:
amazing,
dinner,
gluten-free,
lunch,
summer,
travel,
vacation,
wheat-free
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